Abandoned kimono from Japan redesigned as casual wear to suit contemporary fashion. fashion trends

Vintage kimonos, often regarded as family heirlooms and passed down through generations, are piling up in Japan’s vintage markets as garments go out of fashion and the country’s population shrinks. Traditionally the long, loose dress is wrapped around the body in a series of precise folds, lifts, and adjustments to the dressing process that can take 25 minutes or more. Now designers are reusing high quality fabric from cast off kimono to adapt modern wear to today’s sensibilities and fashions. Change is an art as much as a science.

“People used to wear kimono every day and now they don’t because it’s inconvenient,” says Dunne Park, whose Tokyo-based gallery transforms clothing from Shilly, Japan, and her native South Korea into jumpsuits, shirts, and scarves. “If things are to continue to be used, they must evolve with the lifestyle.”

Park, which has been selling its clothes online and in pop-up shops in department stores like Takashimaya for the past few years, is part of a circular economy movement that aims to extend the life of products. It’s a trend that even some major retailers support as they use worn-out apparel resale to limit their climate impact and appeal to younger shoppers.

Of the 140,000 metric tons of clothing collected through H&M Group brands such as H&M, and other stories and weekday collection services, between 50% and 60% are for reuse and re-wear purposes. has been directed. The Swedish fashion giant is also a majority shareholder in secondhand online clothing retailer Sellpi. US outdoor clothing retailer Patagonia Inc. Allows customers to buy or trade in used clothing and gear through its Worn Wear website and encourages repairs through its stores.

According to Bryony Collins, an editor at BloombergNEF, fabric quality is an important factor in clothing’s ability to be reused or repurposed, and many clothing produced in “fast fashion kind of retail” has a very short life trajectory. Historically, kimonos were made from materials including silk, cotton or wool, although newer versions also come in synthetics.

Kimonos used to have a lifecycle that benefited entire families and communities and lasted for decades or more. According to Isaku Hida, founder of Kimonoya Japan, an online marketplace, after the fabrics are too perishable to be used as clothing, they can be used as cushion covers and then rags or baby diapers and eventually burned. and can be spread as fertilizer in the fields. ,

“Kimonos are extremely eco-friendly,” said Hida, who often buys her vintage supplies at auctions. “There is no waste.”

On a recent Sunday, the park wound from gallery shilling through the stalls at Tokyo’s Odo Antique Market. Held once every two weeks in an outdoor plaza next to Shake Shack and across the street from a bic camera, the event is a quiet celebration of slowly worn materials and objects, some of which have been around for centuries. are in use.

Park was looking for vintage material for her collection. Kimonos, she explains, are typically made from a single bolt of Japanese tanmono fabric, a narrow-loom fabric about 40 centimeters wide and 12 to 15 meters long – meaning they are completely reused. are designed for.

“It takes minimal changes to the tanmono to make a kimono,” says Park. “And when you break off the kimono it goes back to the original tanmono fabric.”

The wearables the park uses for its clothing line also offer something that brands using virgin materials lack: stories and connections to the past. Sometimes Park searches for clothes depicting shung – a type of Japanese erotic art – that men used to line the interior of their kimono or wear under them. The scenes were not supposed to be shown in public and some wearers believed that the clothes enhanced their masculinity. “It was so hidden and nobody talked about it, but everyone knew about it,” Park says.

It is details like this that make her designs all the more interesting. Although global consumers are increasingly considering clothing sustainability when making purchases, decisions are also deeply influenced by emotional interactions.

“Clothing and fashion have a lot to do with branding and marketing,” said BNEF’s Collins. “But ultimately how you inspire people to wear clothes is to make them feel good in them.”

This story has been published without modification in text from a wire agency feed. Only the title has been changed.

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